Exodusfloatnotes

Great Loop Travels

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  • Erie Canal

    Waterford to Lock 16

    This year is the 200th anniversary of the opening of the Erie Canal.

    Waterford, NY, is located at the junction of the Hudson and Mohawk Rivers. Its series of five step locks represents the easternmost portion of the Erie Canal.

    Having reached Waterford fairly early on Thurs., June 19, we had time to do a little exploring. But, first, I took the wagon to the grocery store for some reprovisioning, dodging a rainstorm on the way back. Meanwhile, Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”), who hadn’t gone to Catskill with us, were already here and helped Den to move the boat into a better slip (with power) that we learned was available further down the wall.

    It had been six years since we’d been to Waterford, and when we did explore the town later that day, it was unfortunately clear that it hadn’t prospered in the interval. In fact, we saw a good bit of decline. But, it was nice to be able to see McGrievy’s restaurant where we’d enjoyed some great meals in the past plus the Erie Canal “mule” still in front of where we were docked by the Canal Harbor and Visitor’s Center. We captured the photos below the next day when the sun finally shone!

    After snapping those photos the morning of Fri., June 20, we left for our journey on (this eastern portion of) the Erie Canal. However, we didn’t get far before one of the ball fenders I thought was attached to the cleat wasn’t and floated away unbeknownst to me until Chuck on “Til You Can’t” signaled us. So, we had to do a water rescue in 15 mph sustained winds!

    Part of a group of boats waiting to enter the locks, we maintained station outside of the first of the five step locks (numbers 2-6) until it opened around 8:15. In keeping with the theme for the day, I dropped a pipe pole in one of the first locks, but we got that back, as well. At least it’s not raining today!

    The 259 foot “Day Peckinpaugh,” a 1921 canal motorship (pictured below) retired in 1994, is moored near Lock 2. Though big enough to traverse open waters like the Great Lakes, the boat was intentionally narrow in order to fit through the locks. It could carry 1,650 tons of product (e.g., wheat, sugar, pig iron) and was one of many such boats that brought goods from the middle of the country to NYC. Nearly all if not all of this type of commercial traffic has now ceased on the Eire Canal owing to an increase in trucking and the opening of the St. Lawrence Seaway in 1959 which allowed for much larger ship traffic.

    After completing the step locks, we passed under the Thaddeus Kosciuszko Bridge (aka the Twin Bridges). Every time we commuted to and from the North Country during the three and a half years we lived in Albany we crossed this bridge.

    While we were motoring along, our friend Don from our home marina whom we’d seen in Catskill called to ask why we hadn’t gone to Troy as planned as a last stop on the Hudson River before starting the canal system. (Instead of going to Troy, we’d gone directly to Waterford from Shady Harbor.) Turns out he’d hatched quite a plan to have his nephew who is a policeman in the Troy area approach us at the Troy town dock and tell us he was on a joint task force with NYPD Harbor police looking for a boat called “Exodus” that had entered secure water in NY Harbor! Don’s brother and wife had been sitting in a nearby cafe waiting to watch the show!

    In addition to locks, the canal has flood gates such as the one “Exodus” is travelling under in the following second picture.

    Below are some photos of Lock 7, the last picturing “Til You Can’t” behind us.

    Then, an “action” shot from a lock further west.

    Portions of the original canal walls and aqueducts (“water bridges” to carry canal water and boats across rivers and streams) appeared periodically.

    At times, we’d be travelling adjacent to trains as well as vehicles on roads along the shoreline. The first photo that follows shows the railway below and the road with guardrails above it.

    All in all, we traversed nine locks on this very windy day. Gusts ended up being over 40 mph at points which made locking quite challenging at times. In the late afternoon we docked at a public area quite close to train tracks. Christine and Ken on “Sea Horse” also ended their day at this dock. Comparing notes in the morning, we agreed that though we all heard the passing trains throughout the night, it had been more soothing than bothersome.

    Sat., June 21, brought lighter winds and pleasant temperatures. Those of us lined up on the lock wall pulled our boats forward in order to be ready to lock through, as other boats were already maintaining station outside the lock. It feels like a new sport – perhaps “competitive boating” – as everyone is trying to race to get to the next lock to ensure passage through it. We’re not in a hurry, so we’re just letting boats pass us, especially boats being driven by delivery captains. We did recognize “Sweet Melissa” and “Galapagos” as they passed by us. “Last Tango” (pictured below) took a picture of us and sent it to us via Nebo.

    Scenery on the Hudson River continues to be spectacular.

    After finishing five locks (which went much more smoothy today as compared to yesterday), we were able to find dockage at St. Johnsville in the early afternoon.

    As the day progressed, it became quite hot, so we were very grateful for power to run the air conditioning. Arriving earlier in the day gave us ample time to clean up the boat and do some laundry before walking into town for supper. Docked next to us was a beautiful Fleming, our friend, John’s, “dream” boat. We snapped a picture of Chuck (“Til You Can’t”) holding the keys to the new boat we (supposedly) purchased for John.

    The town is known for its drinking water which we sampled given the temperatures!

    On our hike to town we walked on a bridge over a railway hauling multiple cars of coal.

    Waking on Sun., Jun. 22, we realized that it was a year ago today that we began the Loop! And, this June 22, we woke up to a thunderstorm with hard rain until around 7:30am.

    After the rain stopped, Den took a picture (below) of a man attempting the Loop on a jet ski.

    The plan for today is to be in line at 9:15 to pass through the St. Johnsville Lock (number 16). We knew that there were too many boats already queued up and maintaining station in front of the lock for us to make the earliest opening. We left our dock and made it to the lock only to learn that they’d closed it after the 8:00 lock opening!

    We tied up to the lock wall and waited for some clue as to what would happen only to eventually watch the Lockmaster close up and go home (having received instructions to do so from the NYS Canal Corps).

    Morale suffered! The Captain and First Mate disagreed over whether to return to the dock in St. Johnsville (First Mate’s preference, given the available amenities) or stay at the lock approach, thereby holding our place in line (the Captain’s vote). Captains tend to outrank, so we stayed. We later learned that because of all the rain, they closed locks 16 – 22! Locks 16 and 17 have had intermittent closures all season due to storm/high water damage.

    We are amongst nine boats holding 22 people.

    Having learned about the closures, the group quickly began to take bets on the day/time we’d get a green light from the Canal Corps that the locks were open. Employing their hard-earned survival skills, they also quickly organized “Locktails” plus found a nearby pizza delivery!

    It was very foggy the morning of Mon., June 23, and the day proved to be another very hot one. We took the inflatable to St. Johnsville for breakfast, as there was no sign of the Canal opening anytime soon. The plan was for me to work on the blog in the public library there after breakfast, but, unfortunately, because of some problem with Spectrum, Wi-Fi was unavailable.

    Sitting along a dock wall without electricity or water hook ups in the heat will challenge one’s patience, especially being a mere five days away from our home marina. So, when we received an unexpected visit later that morning from a fellow boater from that same home marina, it was not only a thoughtful gesture, it was a truly welcome diversion! John lives in nearby Rome, NY, and heard we were stuck somewhat close to there, so he came by to catch up.

    He shared that he’d had to do some detective work to locate us. He’d first gone to Ilion, and they told him we’d had a reservation but had to cancel because of lock closures. He then went to St. Johnsville where he learned that we’d been but left, so that narrowed it down for him that we were at Lock 16!

    In the afternoon, we were again treated to a visit, this time from Cathy and Lee (“Remedy”) who are stranded between Locks 17 and 18 but do have power and water. They rode their electric bikes down, providing such a nice surprise! We set up in the shade on the bank …

    … and along with Kim and Chuck (“Til You Can’t”) – and much later Christine and Ken (“Sea Horse”) – enjoyed visiting throughout the afternoon.

    The weather station says it’s 100 degrees, and the news tells us that we are experiencing a “heat dome” with high humidity.

    We do try to run the generator to get some air conditioning, but there is a great deal of debris and foam (pictured below) in the water from the recent storm which often gets sucked into the generator’s intake, so we can’t run it for very long. Den and others work to pull up the larger logs and branches and pile them for later disposal by the Lockmaster.

    In the late afternoon the whole group of boaters got together for “Locktails” and more wagering on the day/time we’d hear from the Canal Corps.

    The day ended with a bit of exploring in the inflatables and the hope of catching a breeze.

    Tues., June 24, is day three on the lock wall. The heat continues, but there is a breeze today. Den and another boater, Doug, from “Hiatus Too” took the wagon and multiple water jugs to a spring that is close by where evidently many locals go for water. Meanwhile, I loaded our laundry into Chuck and Kim’s inflatable and shared a ride to St. Johnsville where Kim had already got permission from the marina dock master to use (and found a way to cool off in) the marina’s laundry area! This was the marina at which we’d earlier stayed.

    Owing to that same kind dock master, each of us was able to take a shower at the marina later that day.

    The very best news, however, arrived that evening when a representative from the Canal Corps came through to take pictures of the sterns of our boats. When we questioned him as to why, he let us know that we would likely be moving through the lock at 4:00 pm tomorrow, and he was noting which boats were here, presumably to ensure that those of us waiting would be able to get through in the event other boats approached the lock simultaneously. His recommendation to us was to “Get to the lake,” that is, to move through the locks as quickly as possible toward Lake Ontario in order to not take the chance to get stuck again.

    It turns out that the Canal Corps worker was correct: We left Lock 16 the next day! More on that in the next post.

  • New York Harbor and the Hudson River

    Early on Tues., June 10, it was still foggy in Northport, Long Island, as we said goodbye to John and Pat (“Patti Anne”) and began our way – in and out of rain – back to NY Harbor.

    We were doing 12 knots though at idle through Hell’s Gate (narrow tidal strait in the East River)! We saw the Roosevelt Island Tramway …

    … and then proceeded through lower Manhattan to NY Harbor and the entrance to Liberty Landing Marina. The Colgate Clock (pictured with “Til You Can’t” and a ferry near it) sits by the entrance to the marina and is located in Jersey City, NJ.

    By the time we reached the marina the rain had stopped, so after docking, we were able to walk around, starting with an amble through the bygone Central Railroad of New Jersey terminal building. Two-thirds of the 12 to 17 million immigrants, after passing through Ellis Island, boarded a train here for a destination outside of New York or New Jersey.

    The remaining one-third took ferries to their journey’s end. To get on our shuttle the next day (Wed., June 11) to take us the short way to Ellis Island, we first lined up next to the old ferry docks outside of the railyard.

    From the ferry, we had a good waterside view of the railroad terminal/old ferry docks.

    Here is another picture, this one taken later that day.

    From the deck of the ferry that morning, we soon caught a glimpse of Ellis Island.

    Though we took the first morning ferry to Ellis Island, we didn’t leave until early afternoon, as there was so much to see and information to absorb. Below are a few images from inside the buildings, including the Great Hall and a ship’s manifest.

    We had a quick lunch at the cafe, eating at a table across from some folks who appeared to have already visited the Statue of Liberty …

    … then boarded another ferry to take us to the Statue.

    At the Statue of Liberty, tourists can visit the museum there plus walk on a path, like we did, that makes a wide circle around the Statue. For an extra fee, one can gain a closer look from the pedestal (people doing so pictured behind us in following photo).

    Visitors can also pay to go in the crown but cannot tour the torch. The original (but modified) torch is on display in the museum.

    We were pretty tired after all the touring as we made our way back to Liberty Landing Marina …

    … and later enjoyed just sitting down for a while and visiting with other Loopers (on the deck of the coastal ship pictured below that doubles as the Liberty Landing Marina office): Harvey and Mei (“Pelican”); Donnie and Julie (“No It Don’t”); Barb and Mike (“Sweet Melissa”); Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”); Margo and Gary (“Solstice”); and, Tom and Fran (“Eclipse”).

    Below are some more pictures of the marina and its surroundings.

    Thurs., June 12, was devoted to chores and trip planning, both of which prepared us to leave early and organized on Fri. morning, June 13. Passing the Colgate Clock again …

    … we continued up the Hudson River with New Jersey to port and Manhattan to starboard. The 80-foot high modern art piece, “Water’s Soul,” in New Jersey soon came into view.

    Further along, we saw the Erie Lackawanna terminal in Hoboken on our left and the aircraft carrier, “Intrepid,” on our right. If you’ve ever watched, The Five, this is the aircraft carrier pictured when they are returning from a commercial break.

    Eventually, the New Jersey side (to port) turns into trees and cliffs …

    … while Yonkers and north (on the starboard) continues to be more urban in appearance for a while.

    Reaching the Tappan Zee bridge, New York (Nyack) is now to port. We reminisced about how a few times crossing this bridge while taking Jonathan to and from college at SUNY Maritime we’d wondered if we’d ever transit under the bridge on the Great Loop. Sure enough!

    We passed Ossining, NY, and could see some of Sing Sing prison on the river’s east bank. Evidently, this is where the expression, “being sent up the river,” originated. Then, to port, West Point was the next impressive sight on our Hudson River trip.

    Pictures can hardly do justice to how beautiful the shoreline is as you travel north along the Hudson, but here are some photos.

    One curious sight was Bannerman’s Castle on Pollepel Island; though now in disrepair, it was a former military surplus warehouse.

    We spent the night at Riverfront Marina in Newburgh then left early the next day (Sat., June 14) in drizzly rain. On and off, we continued to see passenger trains along the starboard shoreline carrying commuters north and south.

    Esopus Lighthouse (built in 1871) pictured below is the only surviving wooden lighthouse on the Hudson. It was at this point that we started kind of recognizing some sights and even remembering the name Esopus, as this area, basically Kingston, NY, is where we’d purchased and kept “Exodus” for the first few years that we owned it.

    The next lighthouse we would see (i.e., Rondout Lighthouse) at the end of Rondout Creek would be a very familiar sight to us, as it marks the entrance to the tributary in which we’d docked “Exodus” originally. It was strange to really recognize a place, as we hadn’t felt that since leaving parts of Ontario, Canada (with which we were familiar) at the beginning of our Great Loop journey.

    Though a creek, this waterway is home to several marinas, the Hudson River Maritime Museum, restaurants along the shoreline (like Ole Savannah in below first picture), Feeney’s Shipyard, the tour boat, “Rip Van Winkle,” and even (news to us since being there) a cruise ship stop!

    That evening, we took the inflatable over with with Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”) to meet up with Rusty and Melissa (“Providence”) and Bob and Robin (“Livin It”) for a delicious dinner at a restaurant we used to frequent called, The Mariner.

    Sunday, June 15, was reserved for tourism. Joining Chuck and Kim, we took an Uber to the Roosevelt Library in Hyde Park where FDR’s family home serves as a museum and archive. By far the most interesting exhibit for me was this first draft of his speech to be delivered to a Joint Session of Congress on Dec. 8, 1941; it was dictated hours after learning of the attack on Pearl Harbor.

    Included below are pictures of the gravesite, stables, and home.

    Leaving the presidential library, we then headed to the Vanderbilt mansion. The 54-room mansion was built for Frederick and Louise Vanderbilt between 1896 and 1899 and very much reflects the Gilded Age in which they lived. Everything inside was jaw-dropping in its opulence.

    The back of the house overlooks the Hudson.

    The next day, Mon., June 16, we stayed closer to home and did a little exploring in the inflatable up and down Rondout Creek.

    Chuck and Kim joined us in their dinghy.

    Nelson has evidently learned to pose for his pictures now.

    We passed under the (active) railroad bridge, saw Fenney’s shipyard, and also spotted evidence of the old canal wall. We got to do some “gunkholing” (i.e., exploring little inlets) like we’d done on the inland rivers.

    We went all the way to the waterfall at the end and then made our way back.

    That evening, we again took the inflatable over to dinner, this time meeting Kim and Chuck (“Til You Can’t”), Kate and Andrew (“Tortuga”), and Dan and Sharon (“Arcadia”).

    It was pouring rain the next morning, Tues., June 17, when we left for the Catskill Yacht Club, but the rain did slow during the day. Our friends Don and Dee from our home marina live near Catskill and had arranged with a friend of theirs who is a member of the yacht club for us to have a transient slip for the evening.

    We knew we were in the right spot when the slip’s owner’s name was Nelsen (spelled a bit differently, however)!

    We had a great time catching up with Don and Dee over dinner at the Port of Call restaurant in Catskill. The same cruise ship we’d seen on Rondout Creek, the “American Eagle,” was docked right next door. Not sure if they’re following us or we’re following them!

    Having never been to Catskill before, we took the opportunity the next morning (Wed., June 18) to walk to town.

    Interestingly, on display throughout the downtown area from Memorial Day to mid-Sept. are fiberglass statues of cats. Each cat is a unique rendition by an artist and sponsored by a local business. The cats are then auctioned at the end of the season as a fundraiser for the Heart of Catskill Association.

    After our brief tour of the town, we headed out for Shady Harbor Marina in Baltimore, NY, passing the Hudson Lighthouse, currently under repair.

    Though we’ve had so much rain lately, which is unfortunate given that it masks somewhat the beauty of the Hudson River shoreline, we were rewarded with a rainbow once docked at Shady Harbor.

    Because we’re getting closer and closer to the end of our Great Loop journey, I thought I’d better dig out our AGLCA 2025 Fleet T-shirts which list boats actively doing the Loop this year. It won’t be long until we can wear them as “Gold Loopers,” meaning those boaters who have completed the Great Loop and now fly a gold burgee (flag) on the bow.

    We were up early on a very windy and cloudy Thurs., June 19, our last day on the Hudson. As we were trying to get away from the dock in the wind, we ended up drifting into the boat behind us (“Eclipse”) owned by Tom and Fran whom we’d met at Liberty Landing. We will forever remember Shady Harbor for that moment. No damage done, thankfully, except to our pride.

    Approaching Albany, where we’d lived for three and a half years, we were again struck by being able to recognize things: the Port of Albany; the USS Slater (a destroyer now museum which we’ve toured); the State University of New York (SUNY) office building; “The Egg,” a performing arts center in NY’s Empire State Plaza; and the conspicuous U-Haul truck atop the rental store.

    We reached Waterford where the Hudson and Mohawk Rivers converge. It is also where the eastern most part of the Erie Canal begins. The next blog update will cover our trip through the Erie Canal and onward to our home port!

  • New York Harbor and Long Island

    We left Manasquan, NJ, the morning of June 4 with the idea to finish our ocean crossing today and to then pass through NY Harbor and continue to Long Island. (While we hadn’t planned to go to Long Island, we need to take our time to ensure that the Erie Canal locks – some of which have been closed down for high water – will be open by the time we reach them; thus, we were happy to embrace the opportunity to explore Long Island with former residents, John and Pat on “Patti Anne.”)

    Even early in the morning, the waters by Manasquan are very busy. Below is a picture of “Patti Anne” and “Til You Can’t” in front of us in the inlet as well as some photos of the jetty and development along the shoreline.

    Sandy Hook was our last view of NJ, and we started seeing the Brooklyn skyline ahead though the Canadian wildfires were obscuring the view somewhat.

    We were very glad and thanked God to have John on “Patti Anne” to assist in navigating through bustling NY Harbor, as John and Pat have traversed these waters numerous times.

    When we saw Romer Shoal lighthouse, we knew that we were officially back in NYS.

    While watching “Patti Anne” approach the Verrazzano Bridge, our next sight was an NYPD boat that came roaring up to their boat.

    We weren’t concerned, however, because we knew that John and Pat’s son was captaining it. He was giving us a welcome to NY Harbor. They asked him to make sure to go back a ways to “Til You Can’t” (third of three in our little flotilla at that point) and pull up next to them, also. The boat travelling behind “Til You Can’t” immediately messaged them frantically asking what they’d done! As if the water wasn’t choppy enough, before John and Pat’s son left, he was sure to wake them. Pat said, “Brat!”

    “Til You Can’t” took a picture of Exodus approaching the Verrazzano Bridge.

    The bells on the buoys were ringing because of the rough water. It made it a little challenging to take pictures.

    One of the reasons we planned to go to Long Island first before staying in NY Harbor was because we couldn’t get into marinas in NYC given the SailGP high-speed catamaran races taking place June 7-8. Boats such as the one pictured below that we saw practicing can reach speeds up to 60 mph.

    This is a very crowded waterway, with various ferries dodging right and left as well as ships and tugs and barges, some at anchor in designated spots. Chatter on the radios is constant.

    The Statue of Liberty soon came into view.

    Below is Exodus in front of the Statue of Liberty.

    Entering the East River with Manhattan in front of us (and then to the left) …

    … we first passed bleachers for the sailboat race and Castle Williams on Governors Island on the right …

    … then saw where the Staten Island Ferry docks in Manhattan on the left.

    We went under the Brooklyn Bridge …

    … and then the Manhattan Bridge.

    The Mexican Tall Ship that tragically collided with the Brooklyn Bridge was being guarded by an NYPD boat while it waited to be moved to a dry dock.

    Other sights along the way included: the Chrysler, Domino Sugar, and Empire State, buildings (pictured); Roosevelt Island; Riker’s Island; LaGuardia Airport; and, SUNY Maritime College (three last pictures) from which son/stepson Jon graduated!

    We passed Stepping Stones Lighthouse …

    … and continued toward our destination of Port Washington in Long Island, viewing many elaborate estates on shore.

    Reaching Safe Harbor Capri in Port Washington, we joined Pat and John (“Patti Anne”), Kim and Chuck (“Til You Can’t”), and Christine and George (“Resonance”) for dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant.

    June 5 proved to be a big day. We first said goodbye to Christine and George then headed out via Uber to the train station to catch the train into NYC. This was Dennis’s first ever ride on a train. When the conductor punched the tickets, he was reminded of the Tom Hanks character on The Polar Express.

    Having gotten tickets for the train, the next adventure was to get tickets for and board the subway at Penn Station. Pictured below are two clueless tourists. It was a very good thing that John and Pat were leading the way!

    Exiting the subway, we walked to North Cove Marina …

    … where two NYPD boats met us.

    John and Pat’s son, John, captain of one of the boats, took us for an amazing tour of NY Harbor. We rode on a boat that is equipped to take POTUS out of harm’s way if need be. It weighs 40,000 pounds more than the other police boats because of its special reinforcements (e.g., bulletproofing).

    Here are some very happy passengers.

    The ladies rode on the top deck most of the way.

    We sped away, passing some of the sailboats preparing for the race.

    First, we visited Ellis Island harbor.

    Then, the tour went to the Statue of Liberty.

    While there, a NYPD helicopter approached and hovered overhead, undoubtably arranged by our captain!

    The guys did spend some time on the windy top deck.

    The tour was most definitely one of the highlights of our whole trip, and we are extremely grateful to Pat and John as well as their son for the incredible experience.

    From the marina, we walked to the Twin Towers Memorial and Museum.

    The museum artifacts were difficult to view (eliciting both a deep sadness and anger), but all were presented in a highly respectful manner. Below are some pictures from the museum, including severed elevator cables, steel in the North Tower from the point of impact of Flight 11, and the last column.

    The museum is underground. After surfacing when finishing walking through the museum, John got a tip from a policeman standing nearby (who was on a specially trained terrorism unit). Learning that John’s son was also NYPD, he immediately told us about a bar/restaurant within walking distance that was frequented by fire and police personnel. We had a delicious lunch in a great atmosphere.

    After lunch, we reversed the process, taking the subway to train to Uber to get back to the marina. Long but action-packed day!

    The following day, Fri., June 6, we were very fortunate to find a groomer within walking distance who could take both dogs that day! Because Ivy is having trouble walking any distance now, we’ve been using the wagon to bring her to the end of this very long dock so used the same system to take her to the groomers in today’s extreme heat. We were able to accomplish other chores (e.g., filling prescriptions) during the course of the day.

    The captains of our little flotilla decided we’d leave the next day (Sat., June 7) for Northport, another spot on the northern shore of Long Island, where we’d be able to catch up with Doug and Barbara (“2nd Chance”) who live in the area. It was cooler but hazy (smoke from Canadian wildfires?) in the morning.

    On the way, we saw numerous fishing boats as well as sand dunes.

    Arriving at Northport, it was apparent that the deep-water harbor is a popular mooring spot judging from the number of anchored boats.

    Unbeknownst to us, the town had a boat parade and a blessing of the fleet at the town docks today. We arrived at the close of the event, and, amazingly, all three of our boats were able to get spots at the town dock, likely because of the cooler, now misty and rainy day. We were docked right across from a King’s Point Merchant Marine tug boat there as part of the celebration.

    The tide swing at this dock is nine feet! The pictures of our boat below were taken at high tide.

    The reason there is a ladder on the dock next to our boat is because at low tide, boaters have to climb up the ladder from their boats which are nine feet lower than what is pictured! Boosting the dogs up the ladder proved to be an interesting challenge!

    Though it rained on and off while we were in Northport, we enjoyed walking through the town which still has trolley car rails in the streets.

    We were able to visit with Barbara and Doug on a couple different occasions on Saturday and Sunday, and Barbara kindly gave me a ride to the grocery store at one point. Sunday evening, Barbara and Doug invited us to their lovely home for appetizers and treated us to an impressive and very enjoyable impromptu concert with Barbara (former music teacher) on piano and Doug on drums.

    We followed this up with a great meal at a local Italian restaurant.

    While we’d all been kicking around venturing further east toward CT or Shelter Island, after a Captain’s meeting on Monday morning (June 9), John and Pat (“Patti Anne”) decided to continue to their home port on southern Long Island while we along with Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”) decided to head back toward NYC and the Hudson River. The next post will cover our return to NY Harbor and trip up the Hudson River.

  • East Coast NJ

    The Atlantic Ocean

    Leaving Delaware City, DE, early on Mon., June 2 …

    … we made it to Utsch’s Marina in the historic town of Cape May, our first stop on the coast of NJ.

    The town has preserved its Victorian architecture and is the oldest seaside resort in the country; the entire town has been designated as a National Historic Landmark.

    It was a pretty good walk to town with our wagon for provisions. The main area downtown is a pedestrian mall and a popular tourist spot, and many cottages on side streets appear to be vacation rentals.

    While downtown, we saw a bus from Siena College (former place of employment in the Albany, NY, area) as well as an interesting bike lock (look under seat) on a police bike.

    Back at the marina, we were surprised and very excited to see Pat and John Clare (“Patti Anne”) arrive! Pat, Kim, and I used teamwork to snap this photo.

    John and Pat left FL and made it here in two weeks! Each year, they take their boat back and forth from FL to Long Island, NY. Later, we went to dinner with Pat and John (“Patti Anne”), Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”), Donna and Rob (“Bitter End”), and Tiffany and Gerry (“Bobbin Along”), the latter two couples whom we’d seen in Delaware City.

    John and Pat related the story of how while they were in the Norfolk, VA, harbor, they rescued a father and two sons from a capsized sailboat in high waves. What a story, and thank God they were out there at that time.

    Tues., June 3, was another early morning departure (“Til You Can’t” pictured below), as we would be heading out onto the Atlantic Ocean and wanted to make as much progress as possible along the coast that day.

    While there is technically an intracoastal waterway in NJ, it is not maintained, so most boats choose to travel outside (on the ocean) in order to avoid running into shoals. Below is a picture of us leaving the harbor at Cape May followed by a picture with the Atlantic Ocean as a background.

    It was pretty strange to look at the chart plotter and see Atlantic Ocean in print.

    Fairly early on, we passed Morey’s Piers Amusement Park in Wildwood.

    We could see the outline of Atlantic City from quite a distance before finally passing it.

    A good deal of the NJ shore appeared to be heavily developed until we reached Barnegat Bay where we started to see expanses of beaches. Interestingly, most allowed cars on them. We also saw a few shrimp boats (one pictured below) that were out working that day. And, while underway, the Captain was able to take some breaks from the helm to enjoy the amazing feeling of being on the beautiful and vast Atlantic Ocean.

    Reaching Manasquan (83 miles from Cape May!), we first got fuel at a dock where fishermen had just come in to weigh their impressive catch of tilefish. One fish pictured below weighed 42 pounds while the other weighed 46 pounds!

    This is a fishing village – so much so that on the point of the inlet there is a Fishermen’s Memorial dedicated to those who lost their lives, including plaques for two coast guard cutters.

    Our dock was right behind a lobster restaurant that was mercifully closed on Tuesdays, the day we were there, as we would have been too close for comfort!

    After supper on the boat, others walked on the boardwalk, but we had to sit that out given that dogs were not permitted. We were able to find an ice cream store where Nelson was not only welcome but was given a treat! He turned up his nose at the pup cup but did like the bone that garnished the top.

    Various fishing boats, including charters, as well as Coast Guard boats lined the waterway where we docked. You can spot the hopeful fishermen on the charter boat, “Voyager,” pictured as they were leaving early on Wed. , June 4, right before we departed hoping to reach NYC -our next blog update site!

  • Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AICW)

    The Chesapeake (MD, DE), continued

    On this sunny Tues., May 17, we walked to breakfast at the Blackwater Bakery in Cambridge where we ran into Loopers Kate and Andrew (“Tortuga”). Later, we did some further exploring of the area with the inflatable, including a closer look at the lighthouse …

    … and a view of the J.M. Clayton Seafood Company dock near us. This company, founded in 1890, is the oldest working crab processing plant in the world. One after another crab boat passes our marina to come in to this dock (pictured below) to unload its harvest.

    Numerous crab boats such as the one pictured below dock at this city marina, perhaps accounting for the sign in the below second picture.

    The watermen use trotlines (long lines with baited hooks) that they anchor in the water. The orange floats on the boat in the picture mark a line’s location. The harbor is busy with crab boats around the clock.

    Cambridge itself is probably a little busier than usual right now, as the hydroplane races are taking place May 16-18. From our boat, we can watch the cranes lifting the specialized boats into the water to race.

    Also nearby is the Pride of Baltimore II, a reproduction of a 19th-century topsail schooner.

    Here are some other sights from Cambridge, including a beautiful Magnolia blossom as well as a stack taken off the USS Potomac inside of which is the elevator that carried FDR when he was aboard.

    The winds are strong here, so much so that the second day of the hydroplane race got cancelled. We made the best of it by biking for a few provisions, taking care of several chores, and enjoying some tasty French toast one morning.

    It turned quite cold and rainy for several of the days we spent in Cambridge. The ducks seemed at home, however.

    A very kind sail boater that met us when we first arrived offered twice to take us to a grocery store, and we took him up on it on Wed., May 21. We were so grateful, as we could only find small items in the distance our bikes could take us. His name was Scott, and the boat’s name was “Booger.” Yes, there’s a story.

    Ultimately, we stayed in Cambridge, MD, for nine nights, one of our longest stays on the Loop. As noted in the previous blog entry, while in Cambridge we experienced a rare late-May Nor’easter that impacted our ability to travel. As part of that whole weather event, on Thurs., May 22, we watched as a hail storm hit, a loud episode on a boat!

    After the hail storm, some intrepid vendors at the small, nearby farmer’s market opened for business. Dennis ordered the advertised crab balls. Evidently, they’re kind of like hush puppies but with crab.

    On Saturday, May 24, the weather cooperated, and we were very happy to welcome Nathan, Kim, Thomas, and Katherine for a visit to the boat. We got to catch up further over a good brunch in town, and it was wonderful to see them!

    That evening, several Loopers gathered for docktails, including Mike and Pam (“Thyme Away”), Scott and Dawn (“Flew-the-Coop”), and Skip and Linda (“Dream Lady”).

    The next morning, Sun., May 25, the winds were more favorable, and we left Cambridge for St Michael’s, MD. Heading toward San Domingo Creek behind St. Michael’s, we saw Rusty and Melissa (“Providence”) who told us that there were dozens of sailboats already anchored in the creek where we planned to anchor. When we arrived, we found that they were accurate! The anchorage was full, but we were able to find a spot (first picture below), albeit quite far from the dinghy dock (second picture) in town.

    The town of St. Michael’s is a popular spot for tourism.

    We highly recommend JoJo’s ice cream. As you can see from the picture below, it’s a clear favorite.

    St. Michael’s has some unique signage.

    While in St. Michael’s, we visited the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. The entrance to the museum sports the original drawbridge that once connected Tilghman Island to the rest of the world.

    A good deal of the museum was devoted to the work of the watermen who harvested oysters and crabs, including blue crabs which are a delicacy. Visitors are permitted to board and explore a couple of boats on display in the museum. An oyster boat …

    … and a 1960’s era Owens cabin cruiser similar to the one Dennis’s family owned when he was a kid.

    Like the Drum Point lighthouse we saw at the Calvert Museum in Solomons Island, the Hooper Straight Lighthouse (bult in 1879) featured at this museum (first picture below) is also a screw-pile lighthouse. A screw like the one pictured below (second) is at the end of each of the seven pilings (or legs) of the lighthouse. These were twisted into the bottom of the Chesapeake Bay on an angle which gave the structure a more stable foundation.

    Before leaving St. Michael’s, we learned that not all crab fishermen work from crab boats. Here is an enterprising guy that we saw toiling for hours catching crabs using what appeared to be a modified fishing kayak.

    It must be that oyster fishing is still popular, as well, because there were beds for lease such as the one advertised in the below photo.

    Weighing anchor on Tues, May 27, took a while, as we had to hose a great deal of mud off the anchor chain that had been sitting on the muddy bottom. Today we plan to take what I’m calling the “Tilghman Island Challenge.” To get out into the Bay from here, you have to go west, but Tilghman Island is in the way. You can go south around the point, which takes time and fuel or you can take the Tilghman Island cut which is faster but reportedly very shallow in spots. An added bonus to saving time by taking the cut is inexpensive diesel fuel at Fairbank Tackle – if you’re willing to try to get to the self-serve pump without a dock (just pilings) that caters to commercial watermen!

    We took the challenge. Here is the waterway coming into the island.

    Once we were able to back between the (just two) very narrow pilings – all the while avoiding the conveyer belt sticking out at an angle from the crab boat next to us (first picture below) – the next challenge was how to get off the boat to pump fuel (second picture).

    Note the lack of a dock. Dennis had to balance on the (unsupported) edge of the inflatable and stretch a leg to land. Then, he repeated the process while gripping the fuel hose.

    The experience was made even more interesting by the name on this waterman’s boat docked near us during all of this.

    The whole enterprise wasn’t over until we were able to successfully traverse the narrow and shallow channel leading through to the other side of Tilghman Island and out into the Chesapeake. It was high tide but ebbing. Doing our best to abide by the markers, we breathed a collective sigh of relief when we passed through the lowest points and saw the Bay! Challenge complete.

    Our next step was to cross under the Chesapeake Bay Bridge which connects Annapolis to Kent Island.

    We were grateful for the calm, though cloudy, day to travel on the Chesapeake as we made our way to Rockhall, MD.

    Rockhall Landing Marina is a really nice little establishment that also has a motel, pool, bike rental, firepit, and lots of gathering areas.

    They’ve really done an admirable job with making this a pleasant getaway. Maybe it’s one of the reasons that Rockhall is called the “Pearl of the Chesapeake.” Here are a few pictures of shops downtown, one you might recognize!

    It rained buckets while we were in Rockhall, unfortunately, making chores like laundry (at the machines in the outdoor, covered patio near the motel) as well as dog walking a very soggy experience. We had to pick up a prescription at Walgreen’s also, so we tried to take that walk at the least damp time!

    Leaving Rockhall on Thurs., May 29, we experienced one-foot waves in the Bay. Passing Aberdeen Proving Ground, where a patrol boat was running with flashing red lights, we heard several loud booms. The water calmed down a bit as we continued and eventually entered the C and D Canal. Below are a couple pictures from the first part of the day.

    Our aim that day was Chesapeake City, but there was no room on the wall by the time we arrived, so we pushed on to Delaware City where we were headed the following day anyway. The Harbor Host at Delaware City and Curtis Stokes & Assocs. (boat brokerage) are sponsoring a gathering there for Loopers who are finishing the Chesapeake and wish to find out about traversing Delaware Bay to Cape May, NJ.

    You could see the nuclear power plant for some time while we were in the C and D Canal, and as soon as we exited the Canal, we saw several tugs and barges and container ships.

    The wind picked up considerably when we entered the Delaware River. On the way we met this ship.

    We followed the directions from the marina very closely, as there was no room for error in the narrow waterway. Once we docked, the workers there “swung” us. Because of the severe current and tide in this waterway, the marina dockhands swing all boats manually using the current to help turn the boat so that when you are ready to leave, your bow is pointed out of the canal. Kate and Andrew (“Tortuga”) stopped by later to ask us to dinner, but we’d already eaten by that time.

    The next morning, Fri., May 30, several boaters decided to leave before the briefings so as to use today’s favorable weather window to cross Delaware Bay. Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”) arrived today, and we visited with Christine and George (“Resonance”) as well. At one point in the day, poor Nelson miscalculated the distance from the swim platform to the shore and took an unexpected swim!

    While at Delaware City, we attended the nightly briefings, joined the group for dinner at Kathy’s Crab House, and toured the small downtown. We had a chance to meet and visit with multiple Loopers, including Mike and Marguerite (“Alba”) and Gerry and Tiffany (“Bobbin Along”) among many others.

    Dennis visited Fort Delaware.

    Here is a picture of us once again breaking a law, this time by having a bike on the sidewalk (boat in background).

    We tried to keep up with Chuck and Kim on a bike tour with promised ice cream at the destination, but I pooped out early. We returned and just got some treats from the marina!

    The tide swings are substantial here, and the following set of pictures helps to illustrate low tide to high tide.

    One of the objectives of the briefings is to try to determine the best weather and tide windows within which to cross Delaware Bay to Cape May. In addition to the Harbor Host’s briefings, we were treated to an additional, impromptu briefing by Mick (“Phantom”) who has done the Loop seven times!

    We were going to leave on Sun., June 1, but decided against it given the winds. Instead, we left very early on Mon., June 2, as did nearly every other boat in the marina. To give you an idea of the strength of the tidal current, we were going 12 knots though running at idle speed!

    We passed from the Delaware River to the Delaware Bay where there is much more fetch given the Bay’s width (i.e., there is much more space for wind to kick up waves). Furthermore, we had a contrary current to tide issue; the tide was changing from ebbing to flood and flowing opposite of the current.

    We reached Cape May, NJ, early, as we’d given ourselves plenty of wiggle room. The next entry will follow Exodus motoring up the New Jersey coast in the Atlantic Ocean.

  • Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AICW)

    The Chesapeake (NC, VA, MD)

    We left Coinjock Marina (NC) in a parade of boats (including “Til You Can’t” and “2nd Chance”) on Fri., May 9, and heard securite calls (safety messages to alert other mariners to a boat’s location or a hazard) from aircraft carriers along the way. Soon after, we entered VA. Traversed four bridges today, a couple very small ones.

    One town along the way added an artistic flair to their shoreline life ring posts.

    Approaching Norfolk (the start of the lower Chesapeake), things got much busier, the presence of ships and industry beginning in force. The chatter on the three vhf radios we use was constant.

    The Naval Station in Norfolk is the world’s largest, and that became increasingly clear.

    Barracks at the naval station are pictured below as well as some sort of loading apparatus that is there.

    We docked – more like squeezed into a slip (see second picture below) – at Waterside Marina in Norfolk.

    The cloudy day gave way to rain and cooler temperatures.

    The next day, Sat., May 10, Dennis and Doug (“2nd Chance”) went to see the battleship Wisconsin …

    … while Barbara, Kim, and I found a “pop-up” market, spotting a unique store dedicated to creating and maintaining houseplants.

    We all enjoyed watching the tugs expertly pushing a car carrier to the dock.

    That evening, Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”) invited Kim Russo, the Director of the American Great Loop Cruisers’ Association (AGLCA), and her husband Mike (“The Perch”) to join our three boat couples for dinner. Kim and Mike were still in the area because the ALGCA Spring Rendezvous had just wrapped up in Norfolk. We had a great meal at the Freemason Abbey.

    Sunday morning (May 11) was beautiful and calm. We said goodbye to Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”), as they’re headed up the east side of Chesapeake Bay while we’re travelling up the west side to Deltaville with Doug and Barbara (“2nd Chance”). Before we left, a Carnival Cruise ship came into dock.

    Here are some of the sights we had leaving Norfolk.

    On our first travel day on Chesapeake Bay, we were blessed with calm waters. Because it is very wide, it can be rough in bad weather. However, we knew inclement weather was coming, so we made it to the little town of Deltaville, VA, where we planned to stay a few days riding out the storm. For such a small, rural marina, they had a large pool, highly unusual from our experience. They were repairing it (plus it was cool outside), so this is as close as we could get!

    Though a small town, Deltaville actually had a West Marine, so Dennis felt right at home.

    They also had the oldest (1948) all-wooden ballpark in VA. Here is Dennis and Barbara at the home of the Deltaville Deltas.

    While here, Dennis replaced the seawater pump on the starboard engine. The nasty weather came on Tues., May 13, with gusts up to 25 mph. After doing his virtual Bible study Tues. morning, Dennis discovered that another member of the study group, Dan (“Kairos”), was on a sailboat in this same little marina. Very small world.

    On Wed., May 14, we left with Doug and Barbara (“2nd Chance”) at 6:30 in order to get to Solomons Island before the next wave of bad weather was to hit. Foggy this morning, so we’re running the radar. We’d wanted to go to Tangier and Smith Islands, but for a variety of reasons had to skip them and head to Solomons Island. While underway, the right engine was running very hot, which was curious, as Dennis had just changed out the seawater pump. He was afraid that we wouldn’t be able to continue. However, when he later turned off the running lights, the gauge showed a normal temperature. There must be a draw on it somewhere. We were thanking God for that revelation in the nick of time.

    The heavy fog set in after 8:00, causing us to use the fog horn. We were grateful for AIS (Automatic Identification System) so that we could see the location of other boats around us. However, not all boats use AIS. Boats without it were calling on Channel 16 or trying to use Nebo to track and contact other boats. Because we were rocking and rolling, it was difficult to keep the boat on course.

    During this, Dan (“Kairos”) who was also headed to Solomons Island contacted us, as their sailboat’s stuffing box was leaking, and he needed to borrow a wrench. Ensuring that they weren’t in immediate danger, we slowed down significantly so they could catch up. However, Dan eventually determined that the bilge pump was handling the flow, and they were safe to continue to Solomons.

    The fog didn’t lift until 11:30. At one point, we heard a banging noise. The only explanation we could come up with was that we ran over a crab pot. It was deep water, but perhaps it had broken loose and floated there. We weren’t dragging anything that we could see, so hopefully we won’t find it under the boat this fall!

    We made it to the Solomons Island Yacht Club in MD (first picture below) where we were able to get a slip because the AGLCA harbor host is a member. Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”) had also arrived.

    Solomons Island is an island almost in name only, as it is separated from the mainland by a few feet. Dennis is standing on the small bridge between the island and the rest of MD.

    During WWII, the Secretary of the Navy appropriated 96 acres of land on Solomons Island for the first Amphibious Training Base. From July 1942 to April 1945, the population of the little island (263) exploded with nearly 68,000 officers and enlisted men transiting through and preparing for amphibious operations, including D-Day.

    The next day, Doug and Barbara (“2nd Chance”), who were staying at a nearby marina, picked us up in their dinghy (Thurs., May 15), and we boated over to the Calvert Marine Museum meeting Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”) who that day chose to bike.

    The museum provided a great deal of information about the livelihood of the watermen who (traditionally) mainly harvested oysters but also eels, clams, and crabs. The fall and winter months are and were dedicated to oystering. In the winter of 1884-1885, 15 million bushels of oysters were landed in Maryland, comprising approximately one-third of the commercial production that year for the world. Today, regulations limit harvests in order to preserve the beds. Pictured below are a set of tongs and a dredge, both used in times past for oystering.

    Outside – but part of the museum – is the Drum Point Lighthouse, a hexogonal structure built on seven iron screw piles that was originally located at the mouth of the Patuxent River. It is one of only four surviving Chesapeake Bay screw-pile lighthouses.

    Dinner that evening at the CD Cafe – recommended by Mary (“Legacy”) – was very good. We were joined by Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”), Doug and Barbara (“2nd Chance”), and Andrew and Kate (“Tortuga”). While there, we saw George and Christine (“Resonance”) whom we’d met at Fernandina Beach.

    Below are some sights from Solomons Island, including a church with an image of a ship in its stained glass window. It was great to see roses blooming as well as some farmland remaining undeveloped on the island.

    On Fri., May 16, we crossed to Cambridge on the east side of the Chesapeake while “Til You Can’t” and “2nd Chance” made their way to sites on the Chesapeake’s west side. Cambridge would put us closer to Nathan (son/stepson), Kim (daughter-in-law), and their children, Thomas and Katherine, for a visit. On our way, we passed an offshore liquid natural gas shipping terminal.

    We were fortunate to have good weather while crossing and in the early afternoon entered the Choptank River leading us to the Cambridge Marina.

    Later, Nathan and Thomas arrived for a visit on the boat, brief tour of the Choptank River Lighthouse (a replica) at the end of the dock, and a delicious Detroit-style pizza in town.

    Owing to a rare late-May Nor’easter, we will spend a good deal longer than anticipated in Cambridge. Details to follow in the next update.