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Great Loop Travels

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  • Inland Rivers

    Black Warrior/TomBigbee (BWTB) and Mobile Rivers

    To Mobile Bay!

    As hoped, the alternator was successfully replaced at Kingfisher Marina in Demopolis on Mon., Nov. 4; however, removal of the stubborn bolt will have to wait until we get to FL. We were joined at the dock in Demopolis by a 100 ft. yacht called “Freedom.” Julie from “Stinger” asked if we could see it, and the captain led us all on a guided tour!

    Very early the next morning, a group of seven of us Looper boats locked through the Demopolis Lock (Nov. 5) with “Freedom.” Picture below shows “Til You Can’t” rafted on to “Freedom” in lock.

    While many boats are requesting extra nights at Demopolis or even heading back up the river in order to avoid possible effects of Hurricane Raphael, we’re heading south, as it appears the storm is going to veer further west. We are thankful we left that day at the time we did, as the lock closed for maintenance almost immediately after we finished locking! Another, “Thank you, God” moment!

    Had a little down time on the way to our anchorage that evening.

    Saw another alligator, this one sunning on the riverbank.

    Here is Dennis demonstrating the international sign for alligator.

    Anchored near Bashi Creek with “Unbridled” and “Til You Can’t” on Nov. 5. Poor to no cell service, so we weren’t able to watch election coverage.

    The tows came quite close to us while at anchor in this narrow portion of the BWTB River.

    I get a kick out of how the tow captains will address boats hailing them. For example, when Chuck on “Til You Can’t” calls a tow, the captain responds with, “C’mon, Til You Can’t” meaning, basically, talk to me.

    In addition to alligators, Spanish moss and red clay are good signs that we’re headed south.

    The next day (Nov. 6), we first learned the results of the election via texts and then were able to read about it intermittently as we gained and lost cell service that morning and as we travelled. More alligator sightings along with some dredging.

    While we’d originally planned to go a short distance to Bobby’s Fish Camp that day, we ended up going further, as Hurricane Raphael did indeed track much further west; thus, there was no need to again consider extending our stay in the river system for protection from the storm. Got through Coffeeville Lock in a timely fashion – last lock (except for by where boat comes out of water in FL) until we start back north in the spring! We are now at sea level and will have to pay attention to tides.

    Anchored at St. Elmo’s (mile marker 96) that evening (Nov. 6) with “Loop Dawg,” “Til You Can’t,” and “Back Forty.” Admittedly, it was a hot, muggy, buggy, and muddy experience. Taking dogs out at anchorages without a nearby boat ramp in this portion of the river = mud. As Dennis puts it, the boat ends up looking like a barnyard. We have to build in extra time in the mornings for mud removal!

    We entered increasingly swampy territory through this part of the BWTB River.

    What also increased as we continued on the BWTB was the amount of tow/barge traffic as well as sightings of industry lining the shore.

    While we were underway the morning of Nov 7, the generator stopped working during one of the times we’d started it for making coffee or some similar task. Fortunately, we made it to anchor early that day, tucking into the Tenesaw River (with the same three boats); this gave Dennis the best part of the afternoon to work on the problem. It was challenging, as it required him to lie across the very hot water heater and engine, but he was able to replace the generator’s impeller that had turned to powder. When you’re not connected to shore power, a generator is a must.

    Cruising toward Mobile Bay on a very overcast Fri., Nov. 8, we entered the Mobile River which widened and became more and more coastal in appearance

    The change was striking.

    Soon, we entered the five mile stretch into Mobile Bay, a very busy five miles of river for tow/barge traffic …

    … leading into the bay …

    where ships of all kinds can be found, such as cruise ships,

    container ships,

    navy vessels,

    and, hospital ships.

    In addition, the picture below is of a new naval unmanned surface vessel that will act as a sailing, armed “drone,” in essence, controlled remotely.

    We docked against the wall at the Mobile Convention Center (Nov. 8) with “Loop Dawg” and “Til You Can’t. Though not visible in the below picture, our boats were docked behind the “riverboat” tour boat at far right.

    There was a ship in dry dock across from us …

    … and a very busy channel between us. Of note below are the first two pictures. Airbus manufactures jets in France, ships the pieces over on ships such as the one below left. The second picture is of unloaded parts (e.g., fuselage, wings, etc.) that are in route for assembly in a plant in Mobile.

    Went to the Maritime Museum close to the Convention Center where we docked but on the other side of the tracks.

    Later that evening, we went downtown (again, waiting on a train first) for a wonderful meal at Dauphin’s on the 34th floor of the Trustmark Building, a spot that provided a panoramic view of the bay.

    We learned that Mardi Gras originated in Mobile, AL, in 1703 as a way of celebrating the French Catholic settlers’ first year of survival in the community.

    Left Mobile on Sat., Nov 9, for Turner’s Marina in Dog River off the bay.

    We stayed for two nights because of high wind on the bay and rain. Den had to fix two different issues on the boat (one pictured below), so it was a blessing that there was a West Marine within walking distance. It was warm with things closed up, and Nelson kind of hogged the fan. We did manage to find a BBQ place! It was here (between the bouts of rain!) where we first started to feel some balmy, saltwater breezes.

    Crossing over to Fairhope on the east side of Mobile Bay on Mon.. Nov. 11 was very rocky.

    We enjoyed seeing Fairhope, though it rained nearly the whole visit. Here are some pictures from downtown.

    Shrimp boats sold right off the back of their boats in the marina where we were.

    Woke up to sun this morning (Thurs., Nov. 14)! Below are some pictures in and around the marina in Fairhope.

    Though it’s still very windy, we have a decent weather window today to travel south into the Gulf Intercoastal Waterway (GIWW) which will take us through the FL Panhandle and Big Bend areas.

  • Inland Rivers

    Tenn-Tom River

    Four months, 2, 450+ miles, and 40+% complete!

    On Oct. 21, we made it to Aqua Marina which is a very large marina just off the Tennessee River and on what is called the Tenn-Tom River, a joining of the Tennessee and Tom Bigbee Rivers. While Dennis worked on getting the cowling off the alternator on the port engine, I washed smelly dog leashes, collars, and lifejackets on the dock. Unfortunately, things got tangled, and Ivy’s collar ended up on the bottom of the river. The marina had a magnet on a string, and Chuck from “Til You Can’t” volunteered and successfully fished it out of the water. We have now purchased our very own magnet on a rope!

    While Dennis wasn’t able to get the last bolt off the cowling yet, he and Nelson were able to empty the mussels out of the sea strainer on the starboard engine. (The cowling may have to wait until Demopolis, AL, where we have scheduled an appointment with a marine mechanic for assistance.)

    After leaving Aqua Marina, we saw several beautiful bald eagles and were actually able to get a reasonably clear picture of one.

    Also of note were the baffles used on this part of the Tenn-Tom to prevent creeks from rushing in to the river.

    We anchored that day at Gin Branch on Bay Springs Lake. This particular anchorage was near a small public dock where a crew was working on the access road. Chuck and Kim had been teasing us, as we’d picked the anchorage which was a nice spot with good water depth but quite noisy with machinery (i.e., no listening to sounds of nature). At one point, we looked over and saw what looked like one of the trucks in the water. Sure enough, the heavy water truck had rolled back into the river. The crew worked on and off for the rest of the day and evening to pull it out. Dennis and Chuck had to take the inflatable over for a closer view.

    Sunset over sunken truck.

    So, even though it was a noisy anchorage, there was a lot to capture your attention!

    We lingered at the anchorage the next morning (Oct. 22), as we had to wait for a tow/barge to clear the next lock. Joining seven other boats, we traversed that lock and the following two locks. At the middle lock, we saw a handmade sticker on the bollard from a boat we met in Alexandria Bay before we started the Loop. The boat’s name is “Funky Monkey,” and the sticker indicates that they tied up to that bollard in August of this year.

    Boaters have to be particularly conscious of the submerged timber in the Tenn-Tom, as illustrated by the following picture of stumps right next to the channel marker.

    Made it to Midway Marina in Fulton, MS. At dinner that evening with Chuck and Kim, we saw Joe and Diane from “LunaSea Too” whom we hadn’t seen since Heritage Harbor in Ottawa, IL. When we’re dining out, we’re seeing different foods on the menus than we’re used to, such as fried green tomatoes and shrimp and grits. Plus, I’m learning that there are many varieties of grits!

    While in Fulton, MS, we’d hoped to go to Tupelo, which among other claims to fame is Elvis’s hometown. However, we couldn’t take the courtesy car further than Fulton. Shout out to our sister-in-law, Julia, whose hometown, Batesville, is also relatively close by here.

    Oct. 24, turned out to be a long day. (See evidence below.) Leaving Midway Marina along with “Til You Can’t,” “Lady J,” and “Leap of Faith,” we made it through three

    locks in fairly good time. At the first lock, Fulton Lock, there was a surprise doggie treat on the bollard.

    Other sights along the way included much more color in the trees …

    … and what appeared to be a loading area for tows/barges.

    We’d planned to anchor right before the fourth lock that day, but learned upon arrival that the anchorage had silted in. Fortunately, we were contacted by a marina manager further upriver who said we could arrive there a day earlier than planned if we made it there by 5:00. We were able to successfully lock through the fourth lock and make it to Columbus Marina in Columbus, MS, by 5:00! Because of the amount of Looper traffic through this area this time of year, many marinas limit your stay to two nights. By allowing us to arrive a day early, this manager permitted us to extend our stay a night, a very welcome gesture.

    After catching the tail end of a farmer’s market in Columbus the next day (Oct. 26), Dennis and Chuck reviewed what bargains they might find at the establishment across the street. The 1920’s era truck was of considerable interest!

    While in town, we picked up the oil for the second engine oil change on the trip thus far, and Dennis changed one engine that day and the other the next day while we were at the marina. After we both completed a good number of other chores, we joined Chuck and Kim in exploring historic Columbus, MS (on Oct. 27), including Tennessee William’s childhood home …

    … multiple antebellum homes (this one called “Riverview” circa 1850)

    … and other notables, such as “Catfish Alley” where in earlier decades blues musicians performed and local fishermen cooked and sold their catfish.

    The river is getting much busier with not only Looper boats but boats being piloted south by hired delivery captains. We’ve had some less than pleasant experiences with some in the latter group, waking us and pushing ahead in lock arrival areas. Picture below shows an unsuccessful delivery of a boat that passed us a couple days ago. We believe he was traveling at night when running ashore. The boat had been sold, and the captain was taking it south to the new owner.

    On Mon., Oct. 28, we passed a telephone booth in an odd spot …

    … and later anchored near Bevill Lock in Pickensville, AL, with a nearby visitors center that is a reproduction of a southern mansion. Tried for a Scarlett O’Hara hat.

    The US Snagboat, Montgomery, which was built around 1926 and retired in 1982, is docked there. The Montgomery, a stern wheel steamboat with a six-ton grappling hook, was used to clear sunken logs (“snags”) and other obstructions from inland rivers. In 1964, it helped to raise a section of the remains of the Confederate gunboat CSS Chattahoochee.

    We were joined at anchorage by “Til You Can’t,” “Tika,” “Cool Change,” and “Knot Home.” Beautiful sunset that evening.

    On Tues., Oct. 30, “Leap of Faith” joined our group for locking through Bevill Lock. We later anchored with “Leap of Faith” and “Til You Can’t” in the Warsaw Cut (Sumter County, AL) where we spotted our first alligator on the trip while out “gunkholing” …

    … as well as a colony of swallows’ nests under a low bridge.

    Back on the road with “Leap of Faith” and Til You Can’t” on Wed., Oct. 30, we passed what are called the “White Cliffs of Epes.”

    Ended up anchoring at Rattlesnake Bend. (No sightings!) When we went to drop the inflatable to take the dogs ashore, we discovered too late that we hadn’t secured it to the boat. Oops. “Leap of Faith” to the rescue.

    “Tortuga” joined us in the anchorage just before dusk. On one of our shore runs, we spotted ribbons tied to some trees. Below one of the ribbons was a tagged cable that appeared to be used for catching alligators. We hustled the dogs along after that.

    Oct. 31, 2024. Demopolis, AL. We made it! We’ve been talking about this town for years, as most boaters’ insurance companies (including ours) won’t allow them to go south of Demopolis before Nov. 1. While at Kingfisher Marina here we’ve been enjoying some creature comforts (electricity, water, a swimming pool!), catching up with Looper friends like Tanya and Dan on “Crimson Tug” whom we haven’t seen since Canada, and re-provisioning for more nights at anchor before reaching Mobile Bay. Although, it was a bit difficult to buy meat at Walmart here for some reason (see below). Had to get the courtesy car for a couple hours another day to purchase meat at a different store.

    However, no rush on provisioning anyway, as our stay has been extended; the mechanic we met here had to order the alternator which won’t arrive until Mon., Nov. 4. In addition, we’re wondering about the potential path of a storm that is developing in the Caribbean, as it may cause us to further delay heading toward the Gulf. At any rate, this is the end of the Tenn-Tom River. When we leave Demopolis, we will be joining the Black Warrior/TomBigbee River and heading toward Mobile Bay.

  • Inland Rivers

    Tennessee, continued

    … and completed!

    Before leaving Lenoir City on Sat., Oct. 12, we were able to say goodbye to Dennis’s Mom and sister who visited us that morning at the marina.

    Like the muddy water we went through in the inflatable when out earlier surveying flood effects …

    … the muddy water was still there when we left with the cruiser.

    Traversing the Ft. Loudon Lock after leaving that morning was quite an experience, as it was full of debris outside and inside the lock. We had to use the boat hook to clear debris as best we could out of the way when moving in the lock. Fortunately, even large trees and boards will float when you push them (below right)!

    Below left shows a crew member of “Til You Can’t” clearing a path.

    After leaving the lock, there was an additional challenge of negotiating turbulent water from the larger than normal spill from the dam.

    Smoother sailing after that. We went under the I-75 bridge near Knoxville. When making our way to and from Florida in the past, we’ve always looked down from that bridge and remarked that one day we’ll be doing the Loop and will be looking up. One day is now!

    After anchoring out that evening, we continued down the Tennessee the next morning (Sun., Oct. 13), taking a short cut that required us to wind our way through a very narrow channel. It reminded us of some of the narrow, ninety-degree turns of the channels in Canada’s Georgian Bay.

    It was a windy day, and Ivy did what she could to ignore it.

    The next lock, Watts Bar Lock, was strangely free of debris. More smooth sailing to little Shady Grove marina where we spent the night.

    On Monday, Oct. 14, we traversed Chickamauga Lock and arrived at Chattanooga, TN, in time to visit the aquarium.

    Below is a picture of Exodus (middle boat) from one of the bridges spanning the Tennessee in Chattanooga.

    In addition to the large tour boat pictured under the bridge (above), there were several “duck” tour boats that passed our boat. They were looking at us, and we were looking at them! You can hear the guide talking about Loopers.

    The walk up to Chattanooga from the dock passes a waterfall which tumbles down concrete steps. When we came upriver in September, we could see many children cooling off in the waterfall. Only one brave child (below left) was here today in this much cooler weather.

    Stayed at the free dock at Shell Mound the evening of Tues., Oct. 15 and woke up at 2:30 am to a boat docking next to us. It was a mom and dad (and two children sleeping) who were on their way to Knoxville in anticipation of the Tenn. vs. Alabama football game this coming weekend. That’s dedication! We’ve learned that such boaters are called the “Vol Navy” (University of Tennessee mascot = Volunteers) and that they “tailgate” with boats.

    We also woke up to 37 degrees on Wed. morning! Time to point this boat south. Winter coat required on board that morning.

    Headed to Goose Pond Marina for Wed. night where we had dinner with Kim and Chuck (“Til You Can’t”) and Louise and Dick (“Nine Lives”) at the marina restaurant. Louise and Dick are doing a presentation on locking at the American Great Loop Cruiser Association’s (AGLCA) Fall Rendezvous at Joe Wheeler State Park.

    On our way Thurs. Oct. 17, past the Huntersville, AL, area, we spotted a military Osprey overhead. Did a little research on this unique looking aircraft and learned it is a multi-use, tiltrotor transport and cargo aircraft that combines a helicopter’s vertical lift capability with a fixed-wing aircraft’s short takeoff and landing capability. Because we anchored that night near the Redstone Army Post/Arsenal in Huntsville, AL, we also heard two stationary rocket tests (loud, sustained booms) and saw a great deal of smoke billowing into the air.

    Most mornings now we’re experiencing significant fog (below), and our anchorage on the morning of Friday, Oct. 18, provided a great example.

    Though we are not attending the AGLCA’s Fall Rendezvous, we did stop at Joe Wheeler State Park Marina for an overnight where we were able to catch up with Tony and Katie (“Katie B”) who were there early in anticipation of the rendezvous. Tony reported that it took them four days of waiting to finally gain access to Wilson Lock. On Saturday, Oct. 19, we made it through both the Wheeler and Wilson Locks smoothly and quickly, nothing short of a miracle. Wilson Lock has gained quite a reputation for being difficult to access for all of the following reasons:

    (1) the lock’s phones are out;

    (2) the main chamber is not operational;

    (3) locking through the auxiliary chamber takes longer because it is a step lock (two parts);

    (4) it is extremely busy with commercial traffic (tows/barges are staged outside days in advance);

    (5) it is unsafe for boats to tie up to one part of the wall of the step lock given the “waterfall” (below left side of picture) flowing from a pipe which could quickly fill up your boat; and,

    (6) all Loopers attending the rendezvous must go through this lock before Monday, Oct. 21.

    Stayed at Florence Marina Oct. 19, where we saw an American Cruise Line ship tied to trees, not a dock!

    Here is Nelson waiting to go on a walk.

    We left with Kim and Chuck (“Til You Can’t”) on Sunday, Oct. 20, for an anchorage near Indian Creek. We took an inflatable ride …

    … then later all jumped in one inflatable for a journey to see Yellow Creek Falls.

    Below is an example of us (senior citizens) trying to take a selfie.

    The following morning (Oct. 21), we were completely fogged in.

    Though we had to delay departure, we left for Aqua Marina later that morning. Once at Aqua Marina, we will be on the Tenn-Tom River and, later, the Tombigbee River which will take us all the way to Mobile Bay. Details of those adventures to follow!

  • Inland Rivers

    Tennessee, continued

    We had a wonderful time visiting with family in the Knoxville area, and while we originally planned to leave Ft. Loudon Marina in Lenoir City, TN, on Saturday, Sept. 28, after the visit, plans changed owing to hurricane season and the subsequent effects of flooding. In speaking with the Lockmaster at Ft. Loudon Lock earlier this week, he said that there was so much flotsam in the lock that you could walk across it; however, he did indicate that it had improved since last week. It is the case that each day we see less and less debris, and the locks are all now open again.

    We’ve been waiting on the discharge levels and amount of debris in the Ft. Loudon lock to abate because we don’t want to maneuver through the whitewater next to the lock (below right) generated by record high spill from the dam (below left), especially with the flotsam. However, this is a small concern given what others are facing in the aftermath of Hurricanes Helene and Milton.

    Meanwhile, we have been getting many projects done on the boat. Den’s Mom and sister have both been in contact regularly. Also, Loopers Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”) live quite close to the marina where both our boats are currently docked and have graciously taken us to their church twice, had us to their home for meals, and invited us along on several shopping trips for provisioning as well as fun outings (including sport clay shooting for the guys), so we’re very grateful to them and thank God for safety and security during this time.

    On Sat., Oct 5, we took an inflatable ride with Chuck and Kim to view the state of the river and Ft. Loudon Lock. Mud and debris have floated downstream from the effects of flooding upstream. The water has turned the color of coffee with cream.

    We saw a significant amount of debris in the water above the lock and dam.

    The confluence of the Tennessee and Little Tennessee Rivers is immediately outside of the marina at which we’re staying. Telico Lake (part of the Little Tennessee River) is not affected by the mud and debris from flooding which is now clogging the Tennessee River, as it is fed by the Smoky Mountains. The water there is clear. You can see the point at which the two meet in the following pictures (as well as more flotsam).

    The birds are at least enjoying it.

    We went north into the more inviting waters of Lake Telico which was created in 1979. The project involved 38,000 acres of land, though the TVA flooded just half of that. You are still able to see the silos from former farms in the middle of the water of Lake Telico amidst elegant houses on shore (below). The red brick silo has a ladder to the top from which many daredevils jump.

    One of the outings on which we joined Kim and Chuck was to the Smokin’ F BBQ and Feedlot where we shared a great meal and had plenty of leftovers, as well! The owners run the farm, restaurant, and food truck plus sponsor Cowboy Church on Sundays and live music during dinner. Great place!

    In the spirit of getting things done while we wait, Dennis and Chuck enjoyed a “demo day” on Oct. 9, dismantling Chuck and Kim’s deck that needs replacing.

    Another outing was an early morning ride through a different “loop,” this one being the scenic Cades Cove Loop in the Smoky Mountains National Park. The route is an eleven-mile drive through mountains and meadows in the park. The best time to spot the resident black bears is early morning, so we were there for daybreak when the one-way lane opened. Unfortunately, we did not see any bears (though saw turkeys, deer, and horses) but did enjoy the gorgeous scenery which included three churches and several log homes built by settlers who arrived from Europe around 1820.

    We weren’t certain whether we’d have to try to get to Florida to clean up damage to our house from Hurricane Milton, but thanks to wonderful friends in FL who keep an eye on the house and vehicle (Joe, Sheila, and Patti!), we’ve learned that there was not significant damage. Therefore, we hope to move forward tomorrow, Saturday, Oct. 12.

  • Inland Rivers

    Tennessee, continued

    It was a beautiful morning on the Tennessee River, Sat., Sept. 21, as we left the anchorage past Nickajack Lock. At times we were in front of “Ripple”

    … and other times we were following “Ripple.”

    The scenery is spectacular. In fact, Doug on “Ripple” said that he feels like he is “driving in a postcard” every day on this part of the Tennessee.

    We passed TVA’s Raccoon Mountain Dam and Reservoir, notable because of its unique design. Water is pumped to a reservoir on top of the mountain during times of low demand for electricity. When demand increases, water is released and flows through a tunnel in the center of the mountain, its force driving the generators in the underground hydroelectric power plant. Below is a picture of the end of the tunnel which empties into the river.

    We’ve learned that the TVA is a very large presence, not only in TN but also in multiple surrounding states, as it covers all of TN, portions of AL, MS, and KY, and smaller areas of GA, NC, and VA. It is a federally-owned electric corporation, the largest public utility in the country, and the sixth largest power supplier in the nation.

    On our way, we saw abandoned house boats right next to multi-million dollar houses on bluffs, lots of fishermen/fishing boats, and someone’s very own waterpark.

    Here is a picture of Exodus in front of Lookout Mountain in Chattanooga, TN, right by Interstate 24.

    Below are some sights from the riverside in Chattanooga, the far right (or last) a picture of the more industrial opposite shore.

    “Ripple” stopped in Chattanooga, but we continued.

    After Chickamauga Lock, the river widened into the Chickamauga Lake, still quite beautiful. Lots of recreational watercraft out today as it is a gorgeous, warm Sept. Saturday. Below are more sights along the way.

    We made it to Shady Grove Marina in Soddy Daisy (the real name), TN, that evening.

    The next day, Sun, Sept. 22, when waiting to lock through Watt’s Bar Lock, a small dive boat (“Chaos”) was running sonar in the approach to the lock. From their communication with the Lockmaster on the radio, we learned that they were there because a “subscriber” had notified them that a vehicle was sunken in that approach. They told the Lockmaster that they had just found it and “had a magnet on it.” They indicated that they work closely with law enforcement and would be making the police aware of the submerged vehicle as soon as one of their divers could “get a hand on it” (e.g., take a picture, obtain a license number). The Lockmaster confessed that he had no idea how to handle the situation and was putting in a call to his supervisor. I imagine that’s not an everyday occurance at locks.

    We could tell we’d soon be seeing another nuclear power plant when we spotted this in the distance (below).

    There is regular, on-going evidence that the Tennessee River shoreline is being discovered. We have seen an incredible amount of new construction, most enjoying a good deal of square footage.

    It is certainly understandable that people would want to look out at this beautiful river.

    Made it to Terrace View Marina that evening and met some folks who just bought their boat in order to prepare to do the Loop in 2027. They recognized the dogs from one of “Checkmate’s” YouTube videos!

    As we left the next morning on Monday, Sept. 23, we immediately hit heavy fog, causing us to run with radar for a good part of the morning. We traversed Thief Neck Cutoff (real name!) in the fog. It turned into a very hot day, prompting a few smart cows to venture into the water to cool off (at one of the few farms we’ve seen).

    We made our way to and through the Ft. Loudon Lock with its 72 foot lift and finally to the Ft. Loudon Marina. This spot is quite near Knoxville where we’ve been able to visit with Dennis’s Mom, Patty …

    … and his sister Elaine and her husband, Kevin.

    As you can see, the dogs make themselves right at home.

    We were able to catch the farmers market in downtown Knoxville on Saturday, Sept. 28,

    see the campus of the University of Tennessee, and later meet Elaine and Kevin’s son Adam and his girlfriend, Kaitlynn, for brunch.

    It was wonderful to see and spend time with everyone!! And, we can’t thank Mom/Patty and Elaine and Kevin enough for the generous hospitality we received (lovely accommodations, wonderful meals, car loan)!

    Because Hurricane Helene arrived while we were here, we have been waiting on locks to reopen and water levels to recede before we can leave Ft. Loudon Marina. Even the nearby Ft. Loudon Lock was closed, with discharge (water levels flowing through the dam) at record cubic feet per second (cfs). When it exceeds 80,000 cfs, they close the lock.

    Chuck and Kim (“Til You Can’t”), Loopers who live locally and were here for a visit, as well, are also waiting on a safe day/time to depart. They graciously invited us to join them for church on Sunday, Sept, 29, where we were able to meet their son and daughter. The marina does not have a courtesy car, and Chuck and Kim have been very kind to take us out and about. We are all getting a good number of jobs done on our respective boats while we wait.

    As the American Great Loop Cruisers Association’s Fall Rendezvous is scheduled to take place at a Tennessee River marina, boaters wishing to attend are stacked up at marinas along the way on the river waiting out lock closures and surging water and debris. We will be heading back in that direction and wrestling with the same concerns.

  • Inland Rivers

    Tennessee, continued

    Armadillo, Air boat, and Aquatic “lawn mower”

    Beautiful, foggy morning in the anchorage when we left on Tues. Sept. 17, with “Til You Can’t.” More bluffs, smaller and larger, with and without houses plus low lands on the opposite shore still.

    Though not nearly as much debris in the water here as other inland rivers, we still have to be on the watch for it.

    We’ve seen a great deal of fishermen in this inland river, and a good number of them use a technique called “jugging” which we learned about at the Folklife Museum in New Johnsonville. The fishermen use lines and baited hooks attached to floating objects – while previously jugs, it appears that they mostly use pieces of pool noodles now.

    Because we had to wait for the Wheeler Lock to open, we stopped at Florence Marina where were we able to fuel up and walk the dogs. While there, we met Doug on “Ripple” who is also doing the Loop. His wife had to go home briefly for a medical issue, but he was waiting to meet his neighbor, Arlon, who would join him for a stretch of the Loop. We ran into Doug and Arlon again, so more on that later.

    At Wheeler Lock, we were delayed for quite some time. We later discovered that these birds wait at the lock, too – for their dinner. It must be that fish surface when the lock is filling.

    After locking through, we had a decision to make as to our destination that night. There is a portion of the river further along that is currently closed to traffic between 6:00am to 6:00pm. TVA is using helicopters to string wire across the river at mile marker 296 near a nuclear power plant. Because there may not be a place close by to anchor, we’d be taking a chance that we’d (a) find a place and (b) it would be close enough to that spot to cross before 6:00am. Also, it would be dark when trying to do so that early. Further, if we didn’t make it in time before 6:00am, we’d be stuck there until 6:00pm. Or, we could have a very long day, passing the spot after 6:00pm in twilight …

    … then running in the developing darkness …

    … and then nightfall when we’d have to find the dock we were heading for in the dark. As you can see, we opted for the latter. God gave us a beautiful full moon that night! We made it to the dock with “Til You Can’t” between 8:00 and 8:30pm. Below is a picture of the dock in the welcome sunshine the next day.

    In the morning, “Ripple” came in and “Til You Can’t” left, but we stayed and departed on Thurs., Sept 19. While we were at Decatur, Loopers Teresa and Pat on “Rock and Roll” gave Den a copy of the Tennessee River Guidebook, as they would no longer be needing it given that they were “crossing their wake” (finishing their loop) the next day at their home marina, Goose Pond.

    Below, a last look at a couple of sights from Decatur.

    Leaving Decatur, we discovered that the Tennessee River just keeps getting prettier as we go. We passed everything from a National Wildlife Refuge to bayous to bluffs.

    However, there are also many areas marked “Submerged Timber” on the charts, places that years ago must have been wooded areas prior to flooding. Some of these areas do have a significant amount of floating limbs, pieces of bark, or stumps.

    When the scenery was not so wonderful, Dennis started the generator and compounded and buffed on the bow. No sense in wasting time!

    We met up with Doug and Arlon on “Ripple” at the Guntersville Lock and then ended up stopping with them at Goose Pond Marina in Scottsboro, AL. This is a big marina/resort, complete with a boat ramp that has eight lanes. We were able to have dinner that evening with Doug and Arlon as well as Teresa and Pat (“Rock and Roll”), the latter able to report on their adventures having completed their Loop. On our way to dinner, we were briefly joined by this guy (below).

    After rising early on Friday, Sept, 20, to do some chores and to take the courtesy car for provisions, we left Goose Pond with “Ripple.” The first picture below shows the route into Goose Pond Marina; note the weeds (hydrilla) on either side of the waterway. When we were leaving, we saw an aquatic weed harvester (“lawn mower”) readying to begin its work controlling the growth and spreading of the hydrilla.

    Following “Ripple” on Friday, Sept. 20 (below).

    On our way on the Tennessee, we have seen multiple nuclear power plants, hydroelectric plants, and suspension towers. The one below (left) they built and evidently never used.

    Passed a very small ferry that crosses a narrow channel to a dirt landing on opposite shore.

    Also, passed a barge called the Coca Cola Stage that was evidently formerly used for the Riverbend Festival in Chattanooga.

    Made it to an anchorage past Nickajack Lock that evening.

    We took the inflatable over to “Ripple,” as we were invited to join Doug and Arlon for a fish fry.

    Bringing the dogs back from shore (below), a necessary task.

    Unfortunately, though it was quite hot, we were not able to swim, as there were notices in the nearby park about the spraying of herbicides in the water to control the hydrilla.

    We had two very different experiences with bass boat fishermen while at anchor here. In the first instance, a fisherman approached Doug’s boat right before we began to eat our fish dinner and asked if he could make a run for anything any of us needed, as we were clearly traveling through. Very thoughtful and above the call of duty. However, the next morning, a fisherman in a bass boat that had been fishing in the small cove in which we were anchored sped up and drove directly at our boat, quickly turning right before making contact with our boat which caused us to rock considerably. I guess he didn’t like us anchoring in his favorite fishing hole. Ah, well. Both sides of human nature on full display.

    More to follow on our experiences continuing up the Tennessee River.