Inland Rivers

Illinois River

… and nearly 1,300 miles traveled

After waiting until late morning for calmer waters on Wed., Aug. 21, we left Michigan City, IN, and crossed the bottom of Lake Michigan, traveling west. You could see Gary, IN, in the distance as well as Chicago (skyline below) further ahead.

We didn’t go as far as Chicago, as we are not opting to travel the Chicago River route to the join the Illinois River; instead, we will be traversing what is called the Cal-Sag (Calumet River and Sag Channel). More on that in a bit.

We stopped at Hammond, IN, at a very large marina in order to stage for starting the Cal-Sag. Loopers Libby and Steve from “San Souci” helped us into our slip. This was just an overnight for us, and we’d heard that it was best to not venture much beyond the marina area. We did later go to the casino attached to the marina – for hamburgers, not gambling – with Libby and Steve and some other Loopers we’ve met previously: Betty and Ron (“Delta Blues”); Diane and Joe (“Luna Sea, Too”); and, Tony and Donna (“Tranquility, Eh!”). Our slip was on “U” dock, which is indicative of the size of this marina. Consequently, we ended up taking the dogs to shore each time in the inflatable, as they never would’ve made it otherwise!

The Cal-Sag route is slightly longer than the route through downtown Chicago but allows for more clearance under bridges and avoids the chaotic situation in Chicago happening now, that is, the protests and unrest surrounding the Democratic National Convention. This alternate route is a combination of the following waterways leading to the Illinois River: the Calumet, the Little Calumet, the Cal-Sag Channel, the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal, and the Des Plaines River.

We left Hammond early on Thurs., Aug. 22, locking through two locks (Thomas O’Brien with a mere two foot drop and Lockport with a 40 foot drop) and traveling under 55 bridges (first bridge entering Cal-Sag pictured above), including the fixed (i.e., not able to be raised or lowered) Atchison Topeka and Santa Fe Railway Bridge with only 19.7 feet clearance. That particular bridge is the lowest bridge on the Loop and dreaded by boaters whose air draft is considerable, especially if the water is high from rain, etc. The picture below shows the “Katie B” in front of us clearing that bridge.

This is a very industrial area …

… with many tows and barges quite near you on the water.

They have precedence over pleasure crafts on the inland rivers and, thus, are generally permitted to lock through ahead of all recreational boats. It’s our responsibility to check with the tow captains regarding if and how we may pass them. If we’re intending to pass a tow and barge, we will be instructed to either “pass on the one” – our port to their starboard – or “pass on the two” – our starboard to their port. The tows are mostly pushing the barges, not towing them.

To prevent the spread of invasive fish (i.e., Asian carp) into Lake Michigan, a permanent electrical barrier has been erected in a portion of the channel. We passed between the two arches on either end of the designated area. You are cautioned to not put your hands or feet in the water under any circumstances! (On the other side of this barrier, that is, further into the Illinois, we’ve seen the carp jumping behind boats. They fly right out of the water.)

More evidence of industry (below).

It was helpful to travel with two other boats, as locks like to lock multiple boats through at the same time. Plus, we’re able to share tasks such as calling ahead to bridge tenders, lock masters, and tow captains for instruction. Pictures below show some of the drawbridges we saw right before stopping for the day.

We arrived at the free wall in Joliet, IL, in the afternoon of Thurs., Aug. 22. Bottom left picture shows the wall while middle features barge moving under drawbridge we just passed and yet another casino building in background – Harrah’s. Third picture is looking behind our boat with Looper boat “Etcetera” far back along the wall. Ian and Yoli from “Etcetera” (met in St. Ignace) had been there since the previous evening.

A policeman met us all at the dock and indicated that he generally likes to talk to the Loopers coming through. The wall to which we’re tied is across the river from the police station. This particular stop didn’t have the best recommendation, as, allegedly, boats have been untied in the middle of the night by unscrupulous sorts. However, choices for stops on the inland rivers are more limited than on Lake Michigan. The policeman indicated that nothing “too bad” has happened here the six years he’s been patrolling. Hmm. Tony from “Katie B” loaned us an extra steel cable he had so that we could secure our boat to the dock with a “line” not easily severed.

Dennis counted three wide and five long on this tow and barge (below) which we think might be the maximum number allowed on this smaller river system.

We all planned leave together the next day (Friday, Aug. 23), and Tony volunteered to call the lock master at 5:00am with a plan to leave at 6:30.

Unfortunately, we were delayed by the lock several times, as they were taking barges before us. We’ve learned that the lock masters attempt a maintain a standard ratio of three “Industry” locks (commercial tow traffic) to every one pleasure boat lock. Though up at 5:00, we all didn’t leave Joliet until 11:30. We locked through two locks with the other three boats from Joliet as well as a tow and barge in the second lock. It was a very long day, and though we were going to try for Heritage Harbor in Ottawa, IL, we were quite tired and joined “Etcetera,” and “Checkmate” at anchor while “Katie B” went on a ways to stop at a small marina.

The anchorage was very nice (below), despite the two different, smaller boats who chose to zigzag at a high rate of speed between our three boats at anchor, once in the evening and again in the morning! However, some other people who lived nearby stopped in their boat to visit with us for a while in the evening. As promised, they were on their dock in the early morning in order to wave to us as we passed.

On Saturday, we were able to again coordinate with the other three boats to lock through together. We made it easily to Heritage Harbor Marina in Ottawa, IL, where, sharing the marina’s courtesy car, we were able to re-provision, get some prescriptions filled, and receive our mail. The Midwest is currently experiencing a heat wave, and the temperature while we have been at this marina has been in the mid-90’s.

On Sunday, Aug. 25, we were able to attend a briefing held by a harbor host who is also the Assistant Lock Master at the Marseilles Lock. He gave a very informative talk about water levels in marinas and anchorages from here to Grand Rivers, KY, using nearly up-to-the-minute data provided by the Army Corps of Engineers.

On Tuesday, left Heritage Harbor with “Delta Blues,” Patti Anne,” and new Looper acquaintances, Kim and Chuck on “Til You Can’t.” Started to make our way through the Peoria area. Heard that “Etcetera” was stopping to visit the Cat Museum. We were curious about that choice until we heard that it meant the Caterpillar Company (i.e., makers of construction and mining equipment) which then made sense as Caterpillar buildings lined the riverfront when we passed it (on Wed.).

Locking through Peoria Lock, “Patti Anne” was rafted onto us. Dennis and Nelson are in the stern talking to Patti and John from “Patti Anne.”

I was monitoring the midship line on the bollard (left picture – looking down; right – looking up). Because the bollard floats, you can secure the line to the boat and just keep an eye on it unlike systems at some other river locks lately where they provide a line that you must pay out gradually as the boat descends

“Til You Can’t” rafted onto “Delta Blues” for this lock behind us.

The Peoria Lock and Dam (above) and the LaGrange Lock and Dam (in Beardstown; below) are unique in that they are two of only a few wicket dams left in the nation. Wickets are movable planks. When the water is high, the wickets are lowered into the water to lay on the bottom of the river. The water then simply flows over them, and boats can navigate through the dam without having to go through the lock. But, when the water is low, the wickets are raised and boats must use the lock. First picture below shows the wickets as we approached the lock and dam while the third picture shows the raised wickets with the water flowing over them on the other side. The wickets were raised because the water is quite low.

This part of the trip has been notable for that low water as well as for Bald Eagles. I’ve tried to get decent pictures of even one of the numerous Bald Eagles we’ve spotted but have thus far been unsuccessful. However, there is ample evidence available daily of how low the water on the Illinois is right now.

It is very important to stay on the sailing line through this part of the trip. We have been able to avoid anchorages and marinas that seem to be available but that actually lack adequate water depth because of the information gained by attending the briefing last Sunday. The downside is that we have to travel further distances and cannot have electricity or water hookups during some of these very hot days and nights.

In addition to Bald Eagles, we’ve seen a significant amount of waterfowl and, notably, several White Pelicans. Who knew pelicans could be seen in Illinois? This guy was pretty far away but you get the idea.

“Delta Blues” hit something on our way Tuesday and had to stop and hire a diver to check their propellor. “Katie B” happened to be at that spot and helped them in. The rest of the group continued to [So and So’s] Holiday Harbor (deleting the real name). All I can say about this “marina” turned tug and casino boat junkyard/graveyard is it did have electricity (thus, air conditioning on boat). Below left is a view of our path into the “marina” through junked boats as well as a picture of the temperature when we were tying up. Our new rating system consists of how many clicks above [So and So’s] something might be.

Not wanting to linger at [So and So’s] and encounter any varmints that had probably taken up residence in all the abandoned boats and barges, we were on the road early through light rain on Wed., Aug. 28, traveling with “Patti Anne,” “Checkmate,” “Til You Can’t,” and “Stinger” (John and Julie). Two hour wait at the lock that day, but instead of trying to maintain station for two hours on a river, we were all very fortunate to be able to pull up to a restaurant that had a dock and was willing to open up early for us! “Bo-lin” (Laura and Phil) joined us. We all ended up anchoring behind Quiver Island for the night.

We’ve seen numerous examples of what appear to be abandoned coal plants but also many fully operational plants such as those below.

On Thursday, Aug. 29, we arrived at Beardstown, a town which has a wall lining the shore to protect it from high water, something that is currently not remotely a problem! We were one of five Looper boats tied up to the barge at Logdon’s Tug Service for the night. You can hear continuous bangs and thumps which we’ve learned is the sound of the carp hitting against the bottom of the barges, feeding on algae.

Walking through town, we passed the courthouse where in 1858 Abraham Lincoln defended Duff Armstrong in the Almanac Trial. In the park across the street, the rock still stands where Stephen Douglas gave his speech in August of 1858. Later that same month, they began their famous series of debates.

Friday, Aug. 30, turned out to be a ten-hour day on the road. We left Beardstown and made it all the way to Grafton, IL (dubbed the Key West of the Midwest). On those kind of days, we switch up drivers and do multiple “tours” of the boat so that we’re not just sitting all the time. There may even be jumping jacks involved.

Met up with many Looper friends in Grafton, and here is one gathering of some of them.

While we were in Grafton, we had the opportunity to take the SkyTour, an aerial lift, from which you have beautiful views of the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers. Katie and Tony from “Katie B” and Mike from “Checkmate” joined us.

We also were able to ride on the Alpine Coaster.

During our travels down the Illinois, we passed two different old locks that were built in the 1870’s.

Also passed a dredging operation …

… and a search and rescue team pulling a car from the river.

Finally, here are some random pictures taken along the Illinois.

We’ll be entering the Mississippi tomorrow, Sep. 3. It will be another series of tying up to barges and anchoring, as there is little in the way of marinas or other recreational boat stops.