Tenn-Tom River
Four months, 2, 450+ miles, and 40+% complete!
On Oct. 21, we made it to Aqua Marina which is a very large marina just off the Tennessee River and on what is called the Tenn-Tom River, a joining of the Tennessee and Tom Bigbee Rivers. While Dennis worked on getting the cowling off the alternator on the port engine, I washed smelly dog leashes, collars, and lifejackets on the dock. Unfortunately, things got tangled, and Ivy’s collar ended up on the bottom of the river. The marina had a magnet on a string, and Chuck from “Til You Can’t” volunteered and successfully fished it out of the water. We have now purchased our very own magnet on a rope!
While Dennis wasn’t able to get the last bolt off the cowling yet, he and Nelson were able to empty the mussels out of the sea strainer on the starboard engine. (The cowling may have to wait until Demopolis, AL, where we have scheduled an appointment with a marine mechanic for assistance.)
After leaving Aqua Marina, we saw several beautiful bald eagles and were actually able to get a reasonably clear picture of one.
Also of note were the baffles used on this part of the Tenn-Tom to prevent creeks from rushing in to the river.
We anchored that day at Gin Branch on Bay Springs Lake. This particular anchorage was near a small public dock where a crew was working on the access road. Chuck and Kim had been teasing us, as we’d picked the anchorage which was a nice spot with good water depth but quite noisy with machinery (i.e., no listening to sounds of nature). At one point, we looked over and saw what looked like one of the trucks in the water. Sure enough, the heavy water truck had rolled back into the river. The crew worked on and off for the rest of the day and evening to pull it out. Dennis and Chuck had to take the inflatable over for a closer view.
Sunset over sunken truck.
So, even though it was a noisy anchorage, there was a lot to capture your attention!
We lingered at the anchorage the next morning (Oct. 22), as we had to wait for a tow/barge to clear the next lock. Joining seven other boats, we traversed that lock and the following two locks. At the middle lock, we saw a handmade sticker on the bollard from a boat we met in Alexandria Bay before we started the Loop. The boat’s name is “Funky Monkey,” and the sticker indicates that they tied up to that bollard in August of this year.
Boaters have to be particularly conscious of the submerged timber in the Tenn-Tom, as illustrated by the following picture of stumps right next to the channel marker.
Made it to Midway Marina in Fulton, MS. At dinner that evening with Chuck and Kim, we saw Joe and Diane from “LunaSea Too” whom we hadn’t seen since Heritage Harbor in Ottawa, IL. When we’re dining out, we’re seeing different foods on the menus than we’re used to, such as fried green tomatoes and shrimp and grits. Plus, I’m learning that there are many varieties of grits!
While in Fulton, MS, we’d hoped to go to Tupelo, which among other claims to fame is Elvis’s hometown. However, we couldn’t take the courtesy car further than Fulton. Shout out to our sister-in-law, Julia, whose hometown, Batesville, is also relatively close by here.
Oct. 24, turned out to be a long day. (See evidence below.) Leaving Midway Marina along with “Til You Can’t,” “Lady J,” and “Leap of Faith,” we made it through three
locks in fairly good time. At the first lock, Fulton Lock, there was a surprise doggie treat on the bollard.
Other sights along the way included much more color in the trees …
… and what appeared to be a loading area for tows/barges.
We’d planned to anchor right before the fourth lock that day, but learned upon arrival that the anchorage had silted in. Fortunately, we were contacted by a marina manager further upriver who said we could arrive there a day earlier than planned if we made it there by 5:00. We were able to successfully lock through the fourth lock and make it to Columbus Marina in Columbus, MS, by 5:00! Because of the amount of Looper traffic through this area this time of year, many marinas limit your stay to two nights. By allowing us to arrive a day early, this manager permitted us to extend our stay a night, a very welcome gesture.
After catching the tail end of a farmer’s market in Columbus the next day (Oct. 26), Dennis and Chuck reviewed what bargains they might find at the establishment across the street. The 1920’s era truck was of considerable interest!
While in town, we picked up the oil for the second engine oil change on the trip thus far, and Dennis changed one engine that day and the other the next day while we were at the marina. After we both completed a good number of other chores, we joined Chuck and Kim in exploring historic Columbus, MS (on Oct. 27), including Tennessee William’s childhood home …
… multiple antebellum homes (this one called “Riverview” circa 1850)
… and other notables, such as “Catfish Alley” where in earlier decades blues musicians performed and local fishermen cooked and sold their catfish.
The river is getting much busier with not only Looper boats but boats being piloted south by hired delivery captains. We’ve had some less than pleasant experiences with some in the latter group, waking us and pushing ahead in lock arrival areas. Picture below shows an unsuccessful delivery of a boat that passed us a couple days ago. We believe he was traveling at night when running ashore. The boat had been sold, and the captain was taking it south to the new owner.
On Mon., Oct. 28, we passed a telephone booth in an odd spot …
… and later anchored near Bevill Lock in Pickensville, AL, with a nearby visitors center that is a reproduction of a southern mansion. Tried for a Scarlett O’Hara hat.
The US Snagboat, Montgomery, which was built around 1926 and retired in 1982, is docked there. The Montgomery, a stern wheel steamboat with a six-ton grappling hook, was used to clear sunken logs (“snags”) and other obstructions from inland rivers. In 1964, it helped to raise a section of the remains of the Confederate gunboat CSS Chattahoochee.
We were joined at anchorage by “Til You Can’t,” “Tika,” “Cool Change,” and “Knot Home.” Beautiful sunset that evening.
On Tues., Oct. 30, “Leap of Faith” joined our group for locking through Bevill Lock. We later anchored with “Leap of Faith” and “Til You Can’t” in the Warsaw Cut (Sumter County, AL) where we spotted our first alligator on the trip while out “gunkholing” …
… as well as a colony of swallows’ nests under a low bridge.
Back on the road with “Leap of Faith” and Til You Can’t” on Wed., Oct. 30, we passed what are called the “White Cliffs of Epes.”
Ended up anchoring at Rattlesnake Bend. (No sightings!) When we went to drop the inflatable to take the dogs ashore, we discovered too late that we hadn’t secured it to the boat. Oops. “Leap of Faith” to the rescue.
“Tortuga” joined us in the anchorage just before dusk. On one of our shore runs, we spotted ribbons tied to some trees. Below one of the ribbons was a tagged cable that appeared to be used for catching alligators. We hustled the dogs along after that.
Oct. 31, 2024. Demopolis, AL. We made it! We’ve been talking about this town for years, as most boaters’ insurance companies (including ours) won’t allow them to go south of Demopolis before Nov. 1. While at Kingfisher Marina here we’ve been enjoying some creature comforts (electricity, water, a swimming pool!), catching up with Looper friends like Tanya and Dan on “Crimson Tug” whom we haven’t seen since Canada, and re-provisioning for more nights at anchor before reaching Mobile Bay. Although, it was a bit difficult to buy meat at Walmart here for some reason (see below). Had to get the courtesy car for a couple hours another day to purchase meat at a different store.
However, no rush on provisioning anyway, as our stay has been extended; the mechanic we met here had to order the alternator which won’t arrive until Mon., Nov. 4. In addition, we’re wondering about the potential path of a storm that is developing in the Caribbean, as it may cause us to further delay heading toward the Gulf. At any rate, this is the end of the Tenn-Tom River. When we leave Demopolis, we will be joining the Black Warrior/TomBigbee River and heading toward Mobile Bay.
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